Lazaway Life

  The Birthday Boy and partner celebrate at lunchtime  with no-alcohol Prosecco (rather out of character in my view) We rather like Mallaig, so are spending the day here. This morning was spent walking a fairly short circular walk through the hills behind the town.  A steep climb up, but then a lovely stroll through some moorland - with a tremendous number of Scotch Argus butterflies (also Green-veined White and Speckled Woods), a sighting of a Sea Eagle, and a Buzzard. Also brilliant views westward to the islands. Eigg to the left, then Rum in the middle, and Skye to the right. The walk was followed by coffee on board, quite quickly followed by a rather nice lunch (smoked salmon and prawns) with Prosecco to celebrate Gordon’s birthday - the pension starts today!  Whoop whoop! Much of the afternoon has been on the flybridge chilling - reading, watching the busy harbour traffic.  Ferries to the Outer Hebrides and to various Inner Hebrides are constantly coming in...

  Seats on Coll. Someone has creative vision  Our night moored in Loch Eatharna on Coll was a lumpy affair.  The wind was as forecast - very light from the southwest, which meant we were in extremely sheltered water, but it also meant we were broadside to the entrance of the Loch.  The sea was calm, but there were small waves - not really bigger than big ripples - that came into the Loch all night. We, and all the other boats moored there, rocked and rolled all night.  Anything that was loose rolled and rattled and knocked all night.   We had planned on going to Tiree to spend the night, but its anchorage is even more exposed, and we didn’t fancy another rocking and rolling night.  So, a change of plan - we headed north to Mallaig.  A lovely 4 hour run, with what little wind there was, behind us.  Although we could see showers on some of the islands behind and to the west, none of them caught up with us. Ardnamurchan was looking rather a...

  Tobermory harbour was mirror calm at 08.00, and stayed pretty calm and sunny as long as we were there - until 13.00 This morning was spent walking to Tobermory lighthouse - nearly 7km (return) along the wooded slightly muddy path from the north end of Tobermory front - just past The Mishnish bar and restaurant. Fabulous view across to Loch Sunart. Looking across to Loch Sunart.   Just out of view to the right is the cruise ship Seabourn Quest dropping anchor.  It had just arrived from Belfast. One of the highlights of the walk was the large number of Scotch Argus butterflies.  Loads of them. A dreadful picture of a Scotch Argus, but this is one of the many we saw. Coffee in the church cafe when we got back into town, followed by shopping for supplies in the Coop.  We’ve got two or three days to come when we will not have an opportunity to restock. Tobermory was looking well in the sun.  Clockwise from top left: the distillery shop was open, but after our ...

  Tobermory harbour early evening  A very leisurely departure from Craobh Haven - after a chat with the owner of Due North, a €5m 68 foot Nordhavn (gorgeous boat), plus a short walk, plus refuelling.  We left eventually at 13.30 ish.   The seas were calm all the way - up through the Sound of Luing, past Easdale where the world championships for stone skimming are held, across the Firth of Lorne where a young Minke Whale once played in our wake, to the south end of the Sound of Mull. The south end of the Sound of Mull is guarded by Duart Castle (top) which has been under repair for years and years, and we were passed by the CalMac ferry (don’t get in it’s way - they are notorious for taking no prisoners!) We had to dodge a number of yachts on the way up the Sound of Mull and were treated to a Sea Eagle (like a flying barn door) crossing the Sound - over to be close to a fish farm.  We safely arrived at Tobermory at 17.45 and were directed to a berth beside a smal...

  Our planned departure was for 12.00 noon, and so there was time for a short walk (after a leisurely surfacing and breakfast) out to the Port Ellen maltings.  We were surprised to see the scale of investment in yet another distillery - Port Ellen distillery, still in the building phase, and due to have its first mash at the beginning of December this year. The new Port Ellen distillery - still in the making. As noon approached the wind became a little lighter, as forecast, and so we left as planned.  Though not exactly - it was a rather ignominious departure.  Self inflicted.  The least said the better. Anyway, our trip up the Sound of Jura was stunning.  Much calmer and sunnier and warmer and more relaxing than we expected. The Paps were radiant!   However, wildlife was a little bit thin on the ground.  We did see Gannets, auks (Guillemots, Razorbills and Black Guillemots), Common Terns, Kittiwakes and a few Harbour Porpoises near the top end of...

  The forecast for today was to be very windy, so another day on Islay has been required.  👍 We decided on a bus trip to Bowmore and then on to Bruichladdich and Port Charlotte, giving us the opportunity to visit Bruichladdich and Bowmore distilleries.  Mary and Susie love a bus trip. It took two buses to get to Bruichladdich, the first to Bowmore and the second from there on to Bruichladdich (and two more to get back this afternoon). The bus dropped us right outside the distillery - were one of my favourite whiskies is made, the Classic Laddie. As usual these days there was a huge array of different variations on the Bruichladdich theme. So we had to sample a few to try to understand the differences - this was at 11.00 in the morning. Two of the Bruichladdich variations that I tried, and then I bought a third one. After this first distillery visit we walked to Port Charlotte to have a chowder lunch in the Port Charlotte Hotel.  Very nice, and quite relaxing, though...

  Islay is definitely a whisky island, maybe THE Whisky Island.  So, whether we liked it or not, we were obliged to visit a distillery or three.  There is nowhere better to do this than from Port Ellen.  It has a walk following the road but separate from it, from the town, for three miles, that takes in three (world famous) distilleries. A mile from town is Laphroaig, another mile brings you to Lagavulin, and the third mile gets you to Ardbeg. Whisky aficionados drool over these names (a  German woman walking the Camino in northern Spain this April told me she loved me because I have been to Ardbeg!).  Not only are the whiskies good, but the distilleries are beautifully kept and lovely places to visit (honestly, the free samples have not influenced this consideration).  Laphroaig distillery where we had free samples, a bottle of Lore was bought, free coffee, and wonderful atmosphere sitting both inside and outside. Lagavulin distillery with lovely whis...

  War memorial in Port Ellen on Islay.  We’re off again!  Woohoo!!! We slipped ropes at 10.30 at Bangor to set off on our next wee trip.  Our original plan had been to set off to explore the Outer Hebrides over a two week period.  However the recent July weather has been so unsettled and wet (lots of places have had 250%+ rainfall compared to a normal July) and the winds have been strong and variable.  The jet stream is in the wrong place apparently.  And just at the moment the forecasts for the next couple of weeks is not different.  The Maidens.   Current lighthouse nearest, and the old lighthouse (where the Shags breed) on the left farther away    We had planned to start 3 days ago, but today was the first good day for getting up past the Mull of Kintyre.  Anyway, off we set and have had a brilliant journey north.  Cloudy, and a bit dreich at times, but calm and great tidal currents with us. A real feature of this trip ...